It’s a strange, intriguing land riddled with contradictions. A Jewish homeland, Israel thrives on secular hedonism and multi-faith diversity - from the beaches and night clubs of Tel Aviv to the devout fundamentalism of Old Jerusalem, the crucible of the world’s three major faiths. Conscription means armed soldiers of the Israeli Defence Force are an everyday sight, whether commuting on buses or shopping in markets. To Israelis it signifies security - to Palestinians occupation.